This is the second half of the story about our visit to Sissinghurst Castle Gardens during a recent trip to England with co-innocent broad abroad, Gail. Our tour guide and hostess is the delightful Victoria. Need to catch up? Go back to the beginning of the Sissinghurst photo essay by clicking here-Sissinghurst Part One. Continuing where we left off with the Pulsatilla vulgaris, we still wish to grow this plant at home.
Black parrot tulips rise amidst what looks to be Aquilegia of some sort. Tulips were well represented in all of the English gardens we visited. Parrots are a type never tried before here, but these would look splendid in the black garden, the Aquilegias are already in place. Maybe they will be given a chance this fall. Note to self: Self, make sure to place them with nice backlighting.
Opening after opening repeats the theme mentioned in part one about how this garden is designed to reveal surprises at each entrance and turn. There is an axis, very precise to line everything up properly, very geometric.
One cannot fathom the amount of pruning and trimming needed to keep this garden looking ship shape. The handbook mentioned a weekly combing by staff, removing any spent blooms or errant twigs. The results speak to that high maintenance. The espaliered apple tree, or is it pear? runs parallel to the hedge tops. How do they keep it so level, she wonders with camera slightly askew? (Celebrity sighting: the lady in the brown duster is Scottish actress Phyllida Law, mother of actress Emma Thompson.)
The Lime Walk, also known as The Spring Garden was a recognizable discovery. This view is featured in many garden books and magazine articles that have been collected and studied over the years. Seeing it in reality caused yet again the need for an arm pinch to make sure it wasn’t a dream.
The Lime Walk is improved with the addition of Victoria and Gail.
Next we step through the hedges to go inside the Cottage Garden.
“Don’t be misled by the name”, says the purchased Sissinghurst handbook. “As the garden writer Tony Lord has said, ‘This is as much a cottage garden as Marie-Antoinette was a milkmaid’.”
The ‘sunset’ theme of hot colors and jam packed plantings is maintained as the tulips, wallflowers, aquilegias and arctotis of spring are switched out to the verbascums, red hot pokers, cannas, crocosmias and dahlias of summer.
Times two. The climbing rose on the cottage is R. Mme Alfred Carriere’ (known to Harold as ‘Mrs. Alfonso’s Career’). It was the first thing they planted at Sissinghurst, on May 6, 1930, the day their offer to buy was accepted.
The Green Man guards the doorway of the South Cottage, which is in fact a fragment of the Elizabethan manor house that had fallen into ruin for over three hundred years when Vita Sackville-West and Harold Nicholson purchased it in the 1930s. The gardens were rebuilt according to the grand plan of Harold to create classical elegance, mixed with the romantic profusion of Vita’s creative spirit. That double principle exists still.
Seen at the Malvern Floral arcade and several other gardens we visited, this Carex elata ‘Aurea’, also known as Bowle’s Golden Sedge was added to the must have list. It was found at our local nursery Mouse Creek and is now growing here at the Fairegarden, we are quite pleased to say. Will it ever look like this? Who knows, but it is the vision. Forever the optimist.
Veratrum album en masse was seen and noted. This plant was highlighted in a recently perused issue of Gardens Illustrated. Seeing the new to us plant and recognizing it from the magazine added to the enjoyment of the Sissinghurst experience. The leaves are like a hosta that was left in an overstuffed clothes dryer too long after the final buzzer sounded.
In the Herb Garden we find this bench, made by Jack Copper, the chauffeur, after World War II from old fragments of the Elizabethan manor house. The middle sign reads: Please do not sit here. The corner sign identifies the planting as Chamomile, Chamaemelum nobile.
The central marble bowl had been brought back from Constantinople where the Nicolsons lived when first married. Harold was a junior diplomat in the embassy, and it was there that Vita had cultivated her first garden. We found the paving around the bowl set on edge to be incredibly beautiful. Flowers, were there flowers there? We didn’t notice, too busy looking at the hardscape. (Added: When we saw the paving on edge, we thought immediately of Pam at Digging’s sunburst path around her stock tank in Austin, Texas.)
The Moat Walk, edged on one side by a bank of deciduous yellow azaleas, be still my heart!, and an elegant Elizabethan wall that was discovered under rubbish and brambles when a gardener’s pick struck it several weeks after Vita and Harold first arrived. The azaleas were originally an explosion of many colors before reverting back to the gold of the rootstock.
On the other side of the wall white wisteria flowers over the top, ready to spill its frothy foam down over the ancient wall. This area was my favorite of the whole garden. It might have been that the row of azaleas coloured the vision however.
There were other parts of this garden that were also delightful, including The Nuttery which was a sea of light green, yellow and white flowers and ferny foliage under a plantation of Kentish cobnuts, a variety of hazel. The images were not of sufficient quality to be shown, but that garden was outstanding.
Thus ends the tour of Sissinghurst. Tea and refreshments were enjoyed indoors after checking out the offerings at this farmer’s market on the grounds. While sunny, the wind was casting a chill on these poor ladies selling luscious sweets. They needed lavender raincoats to block the wind.
There is one more garden to showcase with a summary of thoughts about the travels before we close the book on Two Innocents Abroad. Thank you all for joining in the travelogues, we love having your pleasant company and comments.
To view all posts from the trip to England, click on the links below. (There is a permanent page on the sidebar containing the links to the England posts as well. Click England Trip-Two Innocents Abroad to view it.)
Living A Dream-Meeting In Malvern
Touring With Friends-Ledbury And Hampton Court Castle, Herefordshire
An English Country Garden-Stockton Bury
Batsford Arboretum With Victoria
Frances
Dear Frances, I am so delighted that you enjoyed Sissinghurst so much on your recent visit to England as is clearly evident in your wonderful images and interesting, and amusing, commentary. This is a garden I have known all my life – briefly during Lady N’s final years and then so well during the stewardship of SK and PS, both of whom became very good and, of course, knowledgeable friends. It is, by any measure, a remarkable garden and a supreme achievement of two very talented people. Happily the National Trust continue to maintain it to the highest of standards.
Hi Frances
Lovely again. I’m sure your Bowles golden grass will get there if you keep it watered (it likes it damp), beautiful photos as ever, great tour, thanks
Frances, thank you for so many fabulous pictures of Sissinghurst. I really liked the fact that the azalea walk had reverted back to one colour, I found it a bit to “colourful” before, much more elegant now. Better start saving my pennies so I can go back.
Brilliant tour – really enjoyed it.
My dear friend, It’s such a fantastic garden and your photos are wonderful~Really! I know I’ve said this before, but each photo takes me back to the garden with you and Victoria. I want to see Sissinghurst and GD again and again and if possible in every season. Must buy lottery tickets! The paeonia was stellar and let me know if you find a source! xxgail
Frances, this is the next best thing to being there myself! This garden is definitely going on my “bucket list.” Thanks for such a wonderful tour. From what I’ve read, Vita and her husband had an unconventional marriage, to say the least, and their garden styles matched their personalities. Perhaps this clash between the formal, proper Englishman and the wild free spirit is what creates such an appealing garden. Of course, wouldn’t it be nice to have a staff of gardeners to make sure everything was properly pruned and deadheaded:)
The refreshment ladies look quite uncomfortable–I hope you were staying warm and dry in your lavender raincoat:)
Like a good book, I am sorry to see this tour end. I was equally sorry to see that geometry was a key ingredient in this garden as well…sigh…oh well, I shall have to content myself with my willy nilly design scheme. 😉
I am so glad you and Gail didn’t post at the same time. It is like getting two different tours even though you were there at the same time. Such fun. Such beauty and inspiration.
This is a wonderful tour – and it brings back so many memories. One of my favorite places in the garden is The Lime Walk. Edith Wharton’s House The Mount in Lenox, Mass has gardens under renovation and it has a Lime Walk too.
Fantastic! Like you, I think my favorite is the Moat Walk although it is hard to choose a favorite.
Great photos Frances of a lovely garden, the sun was shining for your visit and you clearly enjoyed yourselves.
Frances, I have so enjoyed your pictures of Malvern and the English gardens you visited! Thank you so much!
Another wonderful tour! Love that Carex (I don’t have that one, but others are great performers). Isn’t it wonderful to step back in time, in history, in another garden?
Thanks for sharing with us.
What a wonderful time you had!! You found things that were also right up your ‘back alley,’ I’d say!! 😉 Thanks for sharing your inspiration, Frances.
Hi Frances, what a wonderful post! The photographs are conveying how you enjoyed the tour. Like Cameron I don’t have carex, but I love it. Is this the last post about your tour?
Frances, I am highjacking this thread to ask about your Prairie Smoke. How is it doing? I live in the really deep South so are you aware of a plant that is similar that can take my heat and humidity?
Sigh. Absolutely gorgeous. So happy you got to “live the dream.” I will get there one day. 🙂
Loved the quote about the milkmaid. And, of course, now I think a water feature is just silly. And, far too American. I need a moat! 🙂 You gals had such a marvelous time… I’ve enjoyed reading your ‘diary.’
Hmm, that paving set on edge around the bowl from Constantinople reminds me of paving that inspired me at Chanticleer, which led to my sunburst path around the stock-tank pond. I wouldn’t be at all surprised to know that Sissinghurst inspired the gardeners of Chanticleer, and it just trickled down from there.
Oh, those gardens are fabulous! The hedges are something were see rarely in the (US?).
Eileen
I have enjoyed your English garden tours very much! Your photos are beautiful!
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