Once the decision had been made that yes, it was possible that we, Gail and I were actually going to England to the Garden Blogger Meet during the Malvern Garden Show the first week in May 2010, we began discussing what gardens we might get to see. Internet sites were scanned, magazine articles checked, then maps of the UK were studied to see how close any of them were to the places we would be traveling. As the time to travel drew near, the offer of garden visiting was extended by Helen for the Saturday during the Malvern portion of our tour. After the show we were to be taken to London by Victoria and would find a way to see gardens close by. We felt it best to just go with whatever places these fine women decided they wanted to take us. What did we know about which gardens were best anyway? They all would be wonderful, the people and the gardens, and they were.
But when Monday rolled around, our last day in England for visits, Victoria called first to make sure the gardens selected, Sissinghurst and Great Dixter would be open, as she knew that certain days are off limits for the public so maintenance chores could be completed and such things as student days. Sissinghurst was open, but Great Dixter was not. I had mentioned to her that Great Dixter was the one English garden that I had really hoped to see. I have a couple of books about it by Christopher Lloyd and much admire his way with colors and design. It was his book, Christopher Lloyd’s Flower Garden, that was actually READ, every word, rather than just looking at the photos and captions, many years ago. What he had to say struck a nerve with me on so many levels. (Photo of The Hovel.)
Using foliage and form, mixing colors all together, the brighter the better, not being afraid to make drastic changes, ripping out long standing gardens to start anew, these were tenets he believed in and the words and images in the pages showed the charming results. It changed me and my gardening outlook forever, for the better. Sadly, seeing the master himself in his creation was no longer a possibility since his passing in 2006, but seeing that garden has remained a dream for many years. Victoria sensed this and explained to the person on the phone that she was a journalist and had two Americans on their last day here who had traveled a great distance to see Great Dixter and could they pretty please let us come? The answer was yes.
We were the only visitors to Great Dixter that day. After the crowd at Sissinghurst where it was nearly impossible to get a photo without strangers milling about in it, this garden was deserted, eerily quiet. There were ghosts about, I could sense it.
It was not a dark and stormy night, it was anything but that, sunny and quite bright with a brisk and chill wind blowing. But there was a presence in the garden that could be felt. The hairs on my arm stood on end at the sighting of a disappearing black clad figure by the iconic yew topiaries.
Even in the handbook we purchased at the gate, with the gardens section written by Christo himself, it says about the yews,
“The yew topiary lends a particular atmosphere to several parts of the garden. … It has a presence, especially when shadows are long and it appears to inhabit, rather than grow.”
The gardens were closed and few people were in evidence. It was the time that the yews could animate…
But wait, maybe that black raincoated figure was Gail.
And we weren’t the only ones in the garden that day.
When voices were heard, whisperings imagined that a spectre was chatting with the shrubbery and flowers, it was actually Victoria and Gail chatting with this fellow who was hard pruning the golden elm to help fight off the dreaded Dutch Elm Disease.
They also chatted between themselves and the hedges.
Along with the stolid yews were froths of flowers and cornucopias of colors swirling together like an ice cream sundae. It was a happy and light hearted setting.
But still the hand of The Gardener was everywhere, as in his beloved color purple of the Lunaria biennis. In every photo I have seen of him, he is wearing a purple shirt. My raincoat felt right at home.
We came upon the famous Wall Garden where the mixture of tulips and wallflowers in outrageous, to some, color combinations is notorious. Here is what Christo has to say about his use of color:
“I have no segregated colour schemes. In fact, I take it as a challenge to combine every sort of colour effectively. I have a constant awareness of colour and of what I am doing, but if I think a yellow candelabrum of mullein will look good rising from the middle of a quilt of pink phlox, I’ll put it there-or let it put itself there.”
This philosophy perfectly reflects my own views about color, or colour, formed at the feet words of the master himself. It was not always so. I began serious gardening with an all white color scheme in my first planned on paper garden and added a few pastels, grudgingly. Even the beginnings of the current Fairegarden were pastels, blues, pinks, whites and lavenders with few yellows or warm colors. We have seen the light now, and that light emanates from Great Dixter.
…follow your dreams and your heart. Don’t be held back by what others might think or say, but choose your own path and be bold about it.
This ends the trip to England. The experiences can never be duplicated, it was the true once in a lifetime journey. We arrived home with minds and memory cards full of the wonders that had been seen, smelled, tasted, heard and felt in our every fiber. It still seems like make believe, a fantastic fantasy story book tale, too good to be true.
~~~
To view the posts about the trip to England, click on the links below. (There is a permanent page on the sidebar containing the links to the England posts as well. Click England Trip-Two Innocents Abroad to view it.)
Living A Dream-Meeting In Malvern
Touring With Friends-Ledbury And Hampton Court Castle, Herefordshire
An English Country Garden-Stockton Bury
Batsford Arboretum With Victoria
Frances
Dear Frances, I am delighted that you found so much to be enjoyed at Dixter and that the atmosphere, the structures, the planting combinations all lived up to everything which you had previously imagined. CL was, indeed, one of the great gardeners of our time and I for one sorely miss his weekly column in the magazine ‘Country Life’.
Thanks for these great posts. His books influenced me a lot too.
I went to Great Dixter with a group several years ago. While we were relishing the joy of the colours, the age of the garden and house, a gentleman wearing a vivid green shirt quietly weeded a portion of the garden. It was Mr. Lloyd himself. When you spoke of ghosts, I could think of him listening to you all as well, and happy you enjoyed it! Thank goodness for books.
Frances, it is great to hear your description of this lovely garden, one I also long to see. One day I will get to visit. I am so glad it lived up to expectations – some gardens don’t. I noticed a lot of tulips in gardens this year, I am not sure if it is because they are later or more where planted.
Best wishes Sylvia (England)
I’m not jealous about your trip to Great Dixter honest, really I’m not. Must get myself organised and arranged a trip there with an overnight stay
Wow, Frances. What a wonderful dream come true in a remarkable twist of circumstances. All alone (well almost) in a garden of your dreams opened to you by special permission. It is beautiful and I do like Dixter’s ‘color philosophy’. It’s only been a few years that I have allowed yellows to dot my garden. I’m so happy you and Gail had this experience of a lifetime together in some dreamy places that meant so much to you both.
Now on to Buffalo? I so look forward to meeting you there. Meems
Thanks Frances for taking us on this magical journey. Oh, I hope I see it for myself one day. Valerie
What a wonderful tour, even better knowing that you were able to feed your senses without hordes of others around and about. Thank you, Frances, for once again taking me to a beautiful garden, full of grace, elegance, and thought.
Dixter did not disappoint for sure. Those yews are amazing. All of that color makes my gardening heart sing.
What a fabulous opportunity to see one of the world’s great gardens. How lucky was that? I have sort of subscribed to his color or rather “colour” theory. In the front it must be saturated color, I have little patience for pastels and white. Thank you for sharing your pictures and thoughts from England. Where will you be taking us next
What a wonderful thing to visit your dream garden without hordes of camera-carrying tourists. Camera-carrying gardeners “get it” and understand not to mar the view or obscure the flower when another gardener is in frozen trance with dropped jaw.
So glad that you and Gail had such a memorable experience and you’ve met friends you’ll keep and cherish forever.
A toast to you Two Innocents Abroad!
Another fantastic tour! It’s no wonder your imagination was working overtime in this garden, Frances–by this time you must have felt rather intoxicated by all the amazing gardens you saw–sensory overload!
This garden really inspires me–I’m glad to see that it is “okay” to mix up colors like this. And I’ve gotten some ideas about the overgrown yews I have that Husband refuses to pull out. Wonder how long it would take to train them into topiaries…
One question–is that your lavender raincoat I spy on top of one of the yews in the 8th picture??
Magical photos Frances! How wonderful to have the gardens to yourselves… what luck! I love the vibrant colors and yes your raincoat does fit right in with those imaginative hues. It is so great that you had this amazing opportunity. ;>)
Your private tour of Great Dixter was amazing. Thanks for sharing. Those yews do have a presence. I think vibrant colors are needed there, to balance the intensity of the hedges. Everything is gorgeous and does not disappoint expectations.
How wonderful that you got to see this great garden when it was closed. That had to be a very special experience.
I LOVED this post! I felt the presence of ghostly spirits in your wonderful photos. I am sure the good fortune of being able to tour this wonderful garden alone helped you to feel it. I wonder if it was Christopher himself? The yews were so impressive, and I loved the big bold splotches of color–especially that orange. I love your (and CL’s)philosophy of color. Now I feel I have approval for my crazy quilt design.
Wow, those are plantastic photos. I’m super jealous right now. Haha, not really – but I am impressed that you got the whole garden to yourself. What a score!
I’ve been “otherwise engaged”, Frances, but I did see your original post about your fabulous trip. I was delighted to see all those great bloggers whom I have encountered over time at all sitting together, smiling away. Sure, I was jealous, lol. Hey – this post is also wonderful. I love the talk of color – this man was a saint for color, random and deep. Love it. Now I’ll go and catch up!!
English gardens always will be an inspiration to me! Thank you Frances for bringing them so close! Thanks for your time putting together these posts, it’s greatly appreciated!
What a beautiful garden! I love his philosophy on color. I’m going to look for the book you mentioned. It sounds like such a fun and inspiring trip.
Frances, GD was my favorite garden and spoke the most to me~the exuberant plantings, the color, the sweet Forget-Me-Nots that blanketed the garden floor….Those wallflowers! I can’t believe we had the garden to ourselves~We will never be able to duplicate that experience unless we sign up to work! What a wonderful time we had~ Who knew blogging would lead to dear friendships, traveling across the country and the pond! We are sure to have even more adventure. xxgail
Amazing! I so agree about the colors, who can argue with Mother Nature?
Frances you had a private viewing of Great Dixter, WOW!!!
I’ve not been, unfortunately as when I got into gardening I left the country:) doh.
I would love to visit Dixter in say September time one of these years, the exotic garden would be in full swing then.
Chrisopher Lloyd is just so readable. Like you, I read his every word rather than flick through the picks as he was completely free and anti garden snob. I remember he said something like this, ‘the colour wheel, I’m aware of such a thing, not that I ever use it’ or words to that effect.
Beautiful buildings too. He didn’t do too bad gardening around that ‘pile’ in the home counties.
Very jealously yours
Rob
Great images! I love the poppy. And the hedges.
Wow, you got them to open Great Dixter for you! Too amazing to have it all to yourselves. What a fantastic opportunity. I’m not surprised you could feel the spirit of the great man himself. What strikes me again about his use of color is the balance of the intensity of hue – all cranked up to 11.
I love the story of how you guys got in, and the colors ARE marvelous. I’ll add this garden to the places I hope to see one day.
Frances,
I love the English gardens, the hedgework, the thatched roofs, the contrast of purple and red!
I have one picture book about English gardens sitting on my shelf that I haven’t fully read yet. I think I’m going to pull it down and give it another look.
What a great trip!
–Debbie (I’m coming out a bit, lol. I’ve been blogging for 3 years and nobody has stalked me!)
I am starting at the end of your trip to the UK so must go back and read all about your other garden visits. I’m so glad that they let you tour the garden, even though closed. One time when we were in England we planned to go to Hidcote only to find the gardens closed that day. Good job Kiftsgate was just around the corner and open. Now I always check to find the dates. My favorite gardens are the ones with garden rooms. We finally got to Hidcote last year and Snowshill, which has to be one of my favorites. You talk about the crowds. Yes- good idea to get there early, in fact as soon as the gates open. Christopher Lloyd was a real hands on gardener. We went in the house and saw his private rooms- very old, steeped in history, low ceilings and his chair; very worn with needlepoint cushion and yet some very modern furniture. Just like his philosophy on gardening. Sounds like you had a fabulous trip with some great friends.
A wonderful post about Great Dixter. For years I enjoyed the late Christopher Lloyd’s words about his garden in Country Life. He was unique and did not succumb to fashion gardening. His garden taught me how to garden! He was never afraid of mixing colours and plants and also using very strong colours.
Ooh, I think I missed a few of the England posts. Will have to go back. I had no idea that Dixter had so many yew hedges. I like the way you made me wait for the famous border garden. 🙂 It was stunning of course. I expected a spring garden would not be quite as saturated with color but I know now that I should have expected that! Thanks for the great tour.
Wow, what a wonderful place. It’s nice to hear you had a great trip. That garden looks phenomenal.
Frances your pictures are glorious. I just went to a fundraiser for Great Dixter and hope to see it one day myself. Fergus Garrett is speaking locally on June 27th Must go make friends.
Thank goodness for tufa, because due to that circuitous route I found your wonderful posts on your recent visit to England. The best gardens/art leaves one emboldened and brave, and Great Dixter surely accomplishes that. Wonderful post, thanks.
Frances,
I just looked through your photos and ended with tears in my eyes. My daughter gets on me, because I love all colors in my garden too. We just finished up replacing a wood deck with a raised concrete patio covered by a pergola and steps to a lower patio. I’ve been researchng and researching. Next will be trees, bushes and a vegtable garden………and of course, perennials!
Billie in Murfreesboro, TN
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